Family and Friends-
One word: Amazing. This past week was the best experience of my life and I would give anything to be back in the Kimberley right now, especially since the reality of school work has finally set it. I have lots to share, so brace yourself and maybe read one days' adventures at a time, and come back for more later! I wish all of you whom I care about dearly could have experienced this with me, it was life-changing and a once and a lifetime opportunity I would never pass up.
Day 1: Tuesday, April 15
After Eating birthday cake for breakfast, the group boarded the bus in Freo to the airport. The flight was quick- just under 3 hours and we got to watch 27 Dresses, my new favorite chick flick! We left Freo with temps in the high 70s with no humidity to arrive in Broome at 1pm in the heat of the day to be greeted with temps soaring in the 100s...with humidity, how pleasant.
It was a short bus ride to the University of Notre Dame, Broome campus. We set up camp in our hostels for the night and relaxed on campus for the afternoon. Tonya, Emily, Sara, and I caught a taxi at 3pm to Cable Beach, one of the most photographed beaches in the world. The beach seemed as if it was only a few miles from our hostel, yet the fare was $15 (that seems pricey to me)! We started snapping pictures immediately. The red sand was so vibrant and stained our feet. Down by the water, the sand was normal-looking and as we came around the corner of these rocks, we saw the long line of camels sitting gracefully in the sand. Sara and I shared Connor. He was very gentle. I sat in front and Sara in back. Now, when mounting a camel, you must lean back very far, because first their rear shoots up, then their front legs follow. A bit jerky too! All of the camels were tied together as we strutted down the beach. It was absolutely beautiful. We leaned that the man who owned the 15 camels actually has over 60! He and his brother catch them in the wild- they don't breed them. Apparently in the wild, they live about 20 years, but 40-50 years in captivity. Also camels weren't brought to Australia until 1940, but the population of wild camels out-numbers camels in Arab countries!
While on our way back along Cable Beach, we were 'graced' with the presence of an old-bearded fisherman running naked across the beach and sprinting into the water- and definitely not deep enough into the water, because you could see his bare behind! I laughed pretty hard. After the ride, we met up with the rest of the group for dinner at the local cafe and a round of mini golf. Let's just say- watching Tiger Woods on T.V. in my prime did not help my score! My first putt was more of a full-force swing and the ball skipped over a few greens...oops!
After dinner we trekked through the bush (which was parallel to the sidewalk) to get to the beach to watch the sunset. Words don't describe its beauty.
While walking back to our hostel, Emily thought she saw the brown snake they warned us about and screamed, me being directly behind her and in the dark, let out a blood curdling cry- I may have offset my 75-year-old director's pace maker. My own heart skipped a beat- all because of the twig she saw. I prayed to not see the real thing, because the reaction would have been far more severe!
Day 2: Wednesday April 16
An early start, 6:45am and a tasty breakfast. We were now on Kimberley time, basically meaning when it happens, it happens. We met Colin and Maria Morgan, our Aboriginal hosts for the week. Our destination, 3 to 10 hours away, while we listened to Aboriginal artist Peter Brandy - he was really good! I wanted to see a croc- from inside the car :)
1st stop- a potty break in the bush. Right now being a boy would really come in handy. There were 15 of us girls within 5 feet of each other, all on the look out for snakes while squatting...butts everywhere!
At our stop at Beagle Bay, the Aboriginal community consisted of about 300 people. We stopped to look at the Church, which has a very interesting history. When the while people were trying to rid Australia of Aboriginal people/their race back in the 1940s-1970s children of mixed race were taken away from their families and sent to missions to be subjected to the white culture and Christianity. The church here at Beagle Bay was used as a mission and the construct of the building and altar was of pearl shells and they reflected light beautifully. Up by the altar, in the floor were pearl shell shapes of animals like fish, also known as totems. Totems are given to each person (in the Aboriginal culture at birth/as a child. It's an animal that the child respects and cannot eat for his/her entire life. This are in the church was a way for the Aborigines to 'sneak' in some of their culture while the while people were trying to instill Christianity.
Joogeragen (sp?) was where we stopped for lunch. Deb, an Aboriginal woman in the community told us about her community and family. Their home is run off of solar power, so no T.V. and no cell phone reception in the area, but they do have Internet. She said it's nice not having a T.V. because when her children were growing up, she was able to teach them so much more, through nature and other things. I tasted some tea that one of the men offered us and he had pulled leaves directly off the tree, similar to Eucalyptus. It was delicious.
We arrived at our campsite while it was still light out. Since we don't wear watches and were on Kimberley time, I don't even know what time it was. We set up our tents, were given teeny, tiny THIN mattresses and a pillow. After settling up camp, our group sat around the fire with our director, Chuck, Neil (dean of Arts/Sciences), and Kristine. We called this the College of Knowledge. We talked about why we came to Australia, what we like about our own country, and one thing we don't like. It was really interesting to hear what everyone had to say. This was also a great opportunity to get away from not only school and life back in Freo, but also away from the hectic life back home in MN, and just reflect on life and such. Maria is an amazing cook! We had stew and rice, yum. The Aboriginal culture is so fascinating and I was already learning so much. I really enjoyed hearing about their origin, names, and lifestyle.
We sat around the fire before bed, but I was exhausted! Bruce, one of the hosts, who's birthday was the same as mine!, told us all about snakes-anacondas especially! One year, in the middle of hte night, people heard a huge 'thump' and it was an anaconda that had just eaten a small animal above the campers in the tree and then fell out!
Day 3: Thursday April 17
Well, even with ear plugs and my thick headband for an eye mask, dawn woke me up at about 5:45am or so. Nature can be quite noisy in the morning!
We enjoyed toast and cereal around the campfire. Once we lathered on the sunscreen and put on our bathers, we hopped in the cars, off to our next adventure. We arrived at the bay, where Bruce's ancestors came from. We stood out on the rock and looked at footprints left from 7,000 years ago. This land has been researched by archaeologists and the prints were from when the hunters and gatherers would spot turtles from a distant rock and would run out to the water to spear them.
Afterwards, we headed to the beach! We all ran and jumped in and the water felt amazing. We weren't allowed to photograph the sacred land behind us, but the beach and water were allowed. The water was turquoise and beautiful!
One of the vehicles we took to the beach is called "The limo" it holds 13 of us, with comfy seats too. Unfortunately it broke down and a few of us were stranded at the beach for a bit.
For the evening, we got into small groups and an elder, Uncle Bundy taught us how to make spears! We shot at the turtle target (a cardboard box with a turtle drawing) and wow, my aim was a little off! Luckily I don't have to rely on spearing for my dinner or I wouldn't last more than a day out in the bush.
While waiting for dinner, a few of us got the opportunity to learn how to make Damper from Maria. It is so simple, and even a non-baker like myself could do it! It basically consists of flour, rising flour, milk, dried fruit, salt, and water. It is then cooked over the fire and so delicious. I'll give it a whirl once I return back home for all to enjoy!
The stars here are beautiful! My first inclination was to look for the Big and Little Dipper- but I remembered we're in the Southern Hemisphere, but we did get to see the Southern Cross.
Day 4: Friday April 18
Woke up to a 100 degree tent today. Campfire breakfast and afterwards Colin talked to the group about relationships and how in their culture he is not allowed to talk directly to his mother-in-law. If they were the only two people in the room, they would have to stand facing opposite directions if they wanted to talk.
We had a tasty watermelon break, mid-morning followed by Uncle Brian taking us on a long hike, with narrow paths, teaching us about different trees- ones we would all find similar, but serve very different purposes to the Aboriginal culture. We climbed over the rocks along the shore line with the most beautiful turquoise water in front of us. We went for a swim in the ocean to freshen up. For some reason the sand never really settles, so while standing in the water, you sink if you stand in one place too long and bubbles come to the surface, pretty neat. Next a lesson on boomerangs by Uncle Brian. Boomerangs are used for fighting, not for games or entertainment. He started with a regular log, sawed it, then we each got the opportunity to use the ax/hatchet and shape it into the boomerang. While making the boomerangs a baby King Brown Snake was spotted in the kitchen area. One of the most deadly snakes. 20 minutes after the first was spotted and killed, another came into the camp, but not caught. Great...
Darkness set on the campsite and all eyes were on the ground trying to spot out snakes. More College of Knowledge, tonight talking about aspirations. I love hearing about what people fear in life, their dream jobs, and the biggest challenges here in Broome. It's a great time for bonding and I got to know a new side of the people I had been spending over 2 months with, but didn't know in that way.
After dinner we had a great time around the fire! We attempted playing charades, let's just say, Mike was not good at acting out Aladdin. It's hard to improvise without having a flying carpet. Ha. Usually my acting skills are nothing to brag about, but I had to do Little Rascals and the girls came through and guess it right away! Two more nights free of homework and free of life's worries, then we'll be back to Freo to face 5 essays. Boo.
Day 5: Saturday April 19
Well, thankfully I wasn't bit by a snake in my sleep! I can't believe I was wide awake at 6:30am!
We rode to a beach and listened to an elder, Eileen talk about her family and customs. We were sitting on the land where her son was born on the beach, before the white people came and took the 'half-castes' away. She showed us pictures of her family and how they caught hundreds of fish right where we were. As I was sitting in the sand trying to bury an and and watch for it to come back out, in the corner of my eye I saw two little eyes pop out of the sand. I calmly stood up and said, "um I'm not sure what's over here, but there is an animal and I don't know what it is.." Surprisingly I didn't scream, but we found out it was only a from that just popped right out of the sand. My worst fear was it would be a snake and then there'd really be some loud noises coming from me!
After lunch the entire afternoon was for us to relax. We started us a game of kickball in the field. It was a blast! Once young Aboriginal boy, Terek, came to join us and he was so cute! We tried to 'give him a break' and help him out- but there was no need for that- he was a pro!
After cutting up veggies and helping Maria prepare for dinner, we took the trucks to a low-tide area to go crabbing. Surprisingly, the highlight of this trip! We traipsed through the mangroves, following Bruce. Do you know what hangs around mangroves? Crocs! They eat people. The crabs we were hunting, honestly body and legs, bigger than my head. We walked through the mangroves, where 2 inch roots poking out which were very hard to walk across, because they covered the entire ground. Once you stepped in the sloppy, muddy water, it became murky instantly. As we were crossing the stream, all of a sudden Terek through his crab and yelled, 'Get out of the water, get out of the water, there's a stingray!' We all tried to run out of the water, but we were stuck knee-deep and I lost my balance and plopped right into the muck. I was completely soaked! We continued walking along the mangroves searching for more crabs- when Bruce found one and caught it with his long rod, I got to hold it by the legs the rest of the time :) Chuck, our director, was so proud (even though I didn't catch it) He got a picture of me holding it. He reminds me so much of both of my grandpas combined. He is so knowledgeable and always concerned for people. He knows I'm terrified of snakes, so he told me to hang on to his arm while crossing the stream because 'his glasses are polarized' and he can see more than me. It was so nice!
Overall, it was a great experience and I am so glad I got to learn how to catch crabs in the wild, even while being eaten by more mosquitoes than I've ever seen (more than MN!)but I wouldn't do it again for awhile.
It's our last night here in the Kimberley, our last talk by the fire, our last meal here, and last night in the tent. I've learned so much here about the true Aboriginal culture, which is far different from what we are exposed to in Freo, and I will forever be changed. Colin and Maria were such gracious hosts and I had a lot of fun! Now for our 6 hour layover in the Broome airport...and a clean shower in Freo tonight! I can't wait!
I know it was a long adventure to read about, but I didn't even capture it all in the blog, but did my best! I hope you enjoyed living it through me, and I will be writing again soon. I miss you all, and I made it back safe and sound!
Peace and love,
Molly
